Should I Change My Own Oil? – Part 2
Century old dilemma
Recently we decided to change the car’s oil ourselves (if you missed that, click here )
Now that we jacked the car up and got the old oil out, we’re halfway done.
Let’s continue and wrap it up:
- Take the new filter and add a bit of new oil in it. Also you need to apply a small amount of oil to the filter’s O-ring and gently massage it. (Depending on the filter angle you can fill it up halfway or almost full to help avoid any dry-starts. This is completely optional).
- Slowly screw the new filter back into position. (You need a good grip. After the O-ring makes contact with the sealing surface you just have to tighten it. Generally, oil filters are tightened no more than three-quarters of a turn to a full turn beyond the point where the O-ring first contacts the sealing surface. When the O-ring meets the sealing surface, you can take a marker, draw a reference line and after that tighten it no more than three-quarters of a turn (consult your repair manual if you’re unsure).
- Make sure the drain plug and oil filter are secure and proceed to add oil into the engine.
- Add your chosen oil into the engine (Approximately one quart less than the recommended amount from your manual. You can easily add a bit more to meet the line afterwards).
- Put the oil cap back.
- Turn the key on and try to start the engine (you can try to keep the key on just for 2 seconds, enough to get the engine moving a bit but not to fully start it).
- Start the engine completely and let it run for 30 seconds (in order to get the new oil flowing everywhere in the engine). Make sure that the oil light is off (if it’s on, it means that there’s not enough oil pressure and you need to turn your car off immediately).
- In the meantime check underneath the car for oil leaks.
- Stop the engine.
- If you’re satisfied, proceed to lower the car back to the ground from the jack
While on flat ground, check the oil level.
- The oil level should be between the 2 lines on the dipstick, close to the upper line (some cars have 2 lines, others have 2 holes on the dipstick). If you’re running a quality engine oil additive, like CleanBoost® EMT™, now’s the time to add it in. If needed, add more oil until it reaches the desired level.
- Move the used oil from the oil pan to a special oil recipient or gallon milk jugs (be careful not to spill it on the ground since it tends to make a real mess).
- Proceed to dispose of the used oil and oil filter. (Most auto part stores that sell oil will take your waste oil and filter at a low/no charge.
Aaaaand….we’re done! After you repeat this process a few more times, you will be able to do this in an average of 30 minutes. Once learning this, other maintenance procedures will begin to seem within your reach! Plus, it’s nice that you save some good money on each oil change.
Money that you can use to make sure that your car will run as new for the longest possible period.
One secret ingredient (mentioned above) that is great to add into the new oil is an additive that will make your oil even better and help your car or truck engine run smoother and powerful is CleanBoost® EMT™.
CleanBoost® EMT™ was developed in the laboratory under close molecular inspection in order to guarantee protection down to a micron level.
It is used in top alcohol race engines and daily drivers alike to provide the oil with the properties it really needs to bond to metal in such a way that it protects engine components from wear, making your car or truck engine seemingly “bulletproof” in the area of lubrication. This is the level of protection you get and this will help prolong the life of your engine components.
Got some questions… get up to speed and check out our FAQ here: http://boostperformanceproducts.com/faq
Check out our new Customer Loyalty & Rewards program here: http://boostperformanceproducts.com/rewards
About the Author
Automotive enthusiast, passionate about Jeeps, hot-rods, turbos, performance, efficiency, diesels, fuels, high performance oils, additives and anything with an engine.